5 minutes with Dayne Johnston from Kowtow

1. With such an incredible resume, you must have a fascinating vault of inspiration. If we could peek into your 'style time capsule,' which icons from the past and visionaries of today would we find in there?

I feel very lucky to have had such a long apprenticeship in this industry. Before joining Kowtow, I spent 20 years at Zambesi as a menswear designer and buyer. That chapter really shaped me. I worked closely with founder Elisabeth Findlay, designing seasonal collections and travelling to Paris twice a year to buy international brands for the stores. Elisabeth had an incredible eye and an instinct for what felt relevant yet timeless. She taught me so much about proportion, restraint, and how to quietly navigate the codes of the fashion industry with integrity.

During my time at Zambesi, I was fortunate to meet some of the designers I had long admired, Raf Simons, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens and Demna Gvasalia. Each of them, in very different ways, expanded my understanding of what fashion could communicate, from Raf’s youth-driven clarity, to Dries’ poetic use of colour, to Rick’s uncompromising silhouettes, and Demna’s ability to challenge convention.

My foundations go back to studying fashion in the mid-90s at Wellington Polytechnic. My heroes then were my tutors, Joanne Giddens and Martyn Smith. I formed close bonds with them, and their knowledge, discipline and generosity left a lasting imprint on me. They instilled a respect for craft and critical thinking that still guides me.

I joined Kowtow as Head Designer in July 2023, and I continue to be inspired by founder Gosia Piatek. She leads with heart, conviction and an unwavering commitment to doing things better. Her energy and vision are incredibly motivating, and they remind me that fashion can be both thoughtful and transformative. If there’s a “style time capsule,” it’s really a collection of people who’ve quietly shaped my perspective, teachers, collaborators, and designers who have shown me that integrity, curiosity and care matter just as much as aesthetics.

2. What Kowtow piece is currently on repeat in your wardrobe? What are you wearing it with?

If I’m honest, it would have to be the Riley Jeans. They were one of the first pieces I designed when I joined Kowtow, and we’ve included them in every collection since.

They’re inspired by ’90s streetwear, relaxed and slightly slouchy, with a subtle skater energy, and they feature an internal drawcord, which makes them incredibly comfortable and versatile. I have them in black and chalk stripe, and my most recent addition is the indigo pair from the new collection. The signature Kowtow contrast greige stitching gives them a quiet point of difference, which I really love.

I tend to wear them simply, usually with the Staple Tee in black or white. For me, it’s about pieces that feel effortless and lived-in, things you can reach for without overthinking, and that just become part of an everyday uniform.

3. What part of the design process do you find the most invigorating?

It’s hard to choose just one part of the process, because I genuinely enjoy every stage for different reasons. The beginning of a collection always feels especially invigorating. That early phase, when our Textile Designer, Olivia and I are developing the colour palette and deciding which shades feel right for the season, is a part I really love. We have our colours custom-dipped from scratch at the factories, so there’s something very special about seeing an idea slowly become tangible.

I also really value the collaboration with our technical team. I work closely with our two wonderful pattern makers, Marie and Megan, and that exchange of ideas and mutual trust is deeply stimulating. There’s a real openness in the way we challenge and support one another, and I feel the garments really benefit from that shared thinking and care.

When the first samples come back from the factories, it’s always a special moment. I have a small ritual of unboxing them myself, I like to be the first to see how everything has come together. It never loses its sense of anticipation.

And then, of course, there’s the evolution of the collection once we shoot e-commerce and campaign imagery in Sydney. I love collaborating with our stylist, Ikin. She has such a fresh perspective and brings her own magic to the looks, often reinventing the way pieces are worn. Seeing the collection through her lens, watching it take on new energy and dimension is incredibly exciting. It’s a reminder that design is never static; it continues to grow through collaboration.

4. What’s a design misstep that, in hindsight, wasn’t a misstep at all - but the start of a whole new direction?

One moment that stands out was during the development of a butterfly print for last season’s collection. At the time, it felt like we were struggling to quite make it work. We use CLO, a 3D software programme that creates true-to-life virtual garment visualisations, not only to test prints, but also to develop and refine our patterns. It allows us to see how a garment will move, sit and feel before it’s physically made, which is an invaluable part of our process. When working with prints, we import them in tiles so we can understand how they behave across the shape and proportion of each style.

One day, while adjusting the artwork in CLO, the print tile unexpectedly expanded and the butterfly became dramatically oversized. It wasn’t intentional, just a technical slip, but when we saw it placed on the dress, it suddenly made sense. The larger scale gave the print a confidence and clarity it hadn’t had before, and the garment came to life in a new way.

The print at its original size simply wasn’t resolving in the way we’d hoped. That experience gently reinforced how much scale and proportion influence everything we design. It was a small reminder that sometimes a shift in perspective, even an accidental one, can quietly open up a new direction.

5. What’s next for Kowtow in 2026?

2026 feels like a meaningful year for us. In the second half of this year, Kowtow turns 20, which is quite incredible to reflect on. Reaching that milestone feels less about looking back and more about acknowledging the community, values and steady commitment that have carried the brand this far.

We have a special anniversary collection releasing to mark the occasion. It’s inspired by the garden of Derek Jarman in Dungeness, a place of resilience, creativity and quiet beauty. There’s something very moving about the way that garden was cultivated against the elements, and that spirit felt aligned with the way Kowtow has grown over the past two decades.

I can’t say too much more just yet, but it’s a collection that feels particularly considered and close to our hearts. It’s something we’re really looking forward to sharing!

View Kowtow's latest collection >>